Letter from Haiti
By Michael Deibert
The Huffington Post
(Please read the original article
here)
During late November, the clouds hung low over Port-au-Prince,
pregnant with the threat of rain. When it did issue forth, life in
Haiti's overpopulated capital, partially destroyed in a January 2010
earthquake but still vibrant between the Caribbean Sea and looming
mountains, continued irrepressibly on. Moto-taxi drivers plied the
streets in their jaunty raincoats, and people continued hawking anything
there was to sell under any surface providing shelter from the deluge.
In the middle of one Saturday afternoon, with clouds rumbling down from
the mountainside, a group of about 200 young men commandeered the
central Place St. Pierre square in the tony suburb of Petionville,
halting traffic and periodically hurling bottles in various directions
(one of which shattered at my feet). The lads thumped their chests for
about three hours before moving on. Their message was that life was too
expensive for people in Haiti and that Haiti's President Michel
Martelly, whom they said they had previously supported, wasn't doing
enough to ameliorate the situation.
Martelly, in his previous life perhaps the most well-known (and most
frequently cross-dressing) purveyor of the sinuous Haitian music known
as
konpa and popularly known as Sweet Micky or
Tèt Kale (Bald Head), was not even in the country at the time, a fact not lost on the protesters.
In office since May 2011, Martelly was winding up a long trip to Europe
during which he addressed the European Parliament, attended the
Ibero-American Summit in Spain and met with the Pope at the Vatican. He
was even absent from Haiti during the must-attend 18 November
anniversary of the Battle of Vertières, the 1803 clash during which the
rebel Haitian army defeated the French near the northern city of
Cap-Haïtien and thus paved the way for Haiti's declaration of
independence soon thereafter.
"He wants to work well for the people," said a middle-aged taxi driver
named Jackson plying the road near the airport, summing up popular
sentiment. "But the problem is his entourage."
Elected to succeed René Préval, the only democratically-elected
president in Haiti's 208 year history to finish his term in office (a
feat the wily, white-bearded Préval managed twice), the political novice
Martelly inherited a to-do list that would have daunted even the most
skilled politico.
Much of the country's capital was leveled and some 200,000 people
believed killed in the January 2010 earthquake, which at one point had
left at least 1.5 million people homeless. Tent encampments dotted the
capital and its environs and a cholera epidemic, almost certainly
brought
to the country by the rather-unloved UN peacekeeping mission in place
since the 2004 ouster of President Jean-Bertrand Aristide, has thus far
killed more than 7,500 people.
The most basic services and healthcare remain out of reach of much of
the nation's 10 million inhabitants, scattered in far-off provincial
districts reached by badly decayed roads. A gradual diminution of
Haiti's security situation since the tumultuous ballot that led to
Martelly's election culminated last month with the spectacular
arrest
of Clifford Brandt, scion of one of Haiti's wealthiest families, as the
alleged mastermind behind a long-running kidnapping ring.
Also
arrested
as part of the gang was the commander of a security unit from
Martelly's National Palace (there has been no suggestion the president
himself was involved), who entered prison as Calixte Valentin, a
Martelly advisor accused of
murder,
exited it. Former members of the country's army, demobilized but not
constitutionally disbanded by Aristide in 1995, continue to
agitate
for the force's reinstatement despite the existence of a police force -
the Police Nationale d'Haïti or PNH - currently numbering some 10,000
recruits. A battle over the composition of the country's electoral
council has raged for months.
"A stabilization process is taking place albeit a fragile one," says
Mariano Fernández, the Chilean diplomat who heads the UN's peacekeeping
mission, known by its acronym
MINUSTAH,
which is envisioned to be scaled back to around 6,300 military
personnel in coming months. "We continue planning to reduce and
reconfigure MINUSTAH in the coming years depending on the stability of
the conditions."
The last caveat is an important one. Haiti's security forces have
enjoyed a steadily-improving reputation since the 2006 inauguration of
Martelly's predecessor Préval. It has been a marked change from
Aristide's 2001-2004 tenure, when politically-connected partisans were
inserted
into the PNH regardless of their competency or culpability in various
crimes, or that of a 2004-2006 interim government when police often made
little
distinction between armed pro-Aristide gangs and ordinary residents of the capital's poorer neighborhoods.
Until recently, the PNH were headed by Mario Andrésol, widely regarded
as one of the most honest and competent officials in the country and who
was replaced by
Gotson Aurélus
in August. Since then, something of a delicate realignment has been
taking place. It is widely believed that Secretary of State for Public
Security Reginald Delva exercises more operational control over the PNH
than Minister of Justice Jean Renel Sanon, his nominal boss. A former
senator,
Joseph Lambert, now a Martelly advisor, is also spoken of as wielding influence beyond what one would expect.
Though the Brandt arrest was greeted with a gasp in much of the
international community (this is, after all, the strata of society most
international actors interact with) in Haiti the view was more
circumspect.
"The bourgeois control the police with their money, and a lot of police
officers also provide security for businesses and the private sector
because there is no control, and they can receive more money for their
work," says Pierre Espérance, the Executive Director of the
Réseau National de Défense des Droits Humains, Haiti's most prominent human rights organization. "Each kidnapping gang has its connection with the police."
Despite such realities, one of Martelly's chief plans of attack appears
to be an attempt to re-band Haiti and change its relentlessly negative
image from a place solely of natural disaster, coups, misery and death
to one of a place open to investment and boasting a vibrant and
tourist-friendly culture.
Though this approach has been rather too smugly sneered at by the
international chattering class that comments on Haiti, most people I
spoke with in the country actually saw its value and supported it in
principle, even if they didn't quite understand why the president was
spending so much time abroad.
There is some evidence that Martelly's approach may be succeeding. The
president, ever the extrovert natural showman, would seem a perfect fit
for such a campaign. In July, the president even declared a three day
out-of-season
Carnaval des fleurs
(Carnival of Flowers) designed to highlight the country's flair for
music and pageantry. The camps from the central part of the capital have
mostly been cleared, but with some to their inhabitants
relocated to a windswept moonscape situated on denuded land on a road leading north out of the city
A new industrial park in the country's north - which itself has hardly been free from
controversy - was
opened
in October, with, among others, U.S. Secretary of State Hillary Clinton
and British billionaire Richard Branson in attendance. The lure of
potential gold
reserves
in northern Haiti has brought a number of international mining
companies, some with questionable records, to stake claims on huge
swathes of land, creating economic potential but only of the most
fraught kind.
Though the vast overpopulation of the capital - a consequence in part of international economic
policies
inflicted upon Haiti - helped lead to the vast death toll from the
earthquake, the decentralization of economic and political power from
Port-au-Prince still remains an agonizingly slow and complex process.
Privately, many in Haiti's business community, intensely nationalistic
at heart despite their comfortable economic status, complain the country
has been "invaded" by foreign companies and non-governmental
organizations.
In some economically struggling communities, the feeling is one of hopes delayed if not dashed entirely.
"We liked Martelly and we thought he would help a lot of people," says
Pè Nico, a diminutive young man whose moniker ("Father Nico") belies his
youthful appearance. "But this neighborhood has always been forgotten."
Pushing 30 years old but looking barely into his 20s and resplendent in a
Miami Heat baseball cap, Pè Nico leads an armed faction in the
capital's
quartier populaire of St. Martin, an area of
deeply-rutted roads and at times precarious-looking structures from
which the PNH and MINUSTAH appear completely absent.
Pè Nico's baz say they voted - "99%" in their words - for Martelly. In
their neighborhood, once a war zone and still subject to occasional
bouts of violence, residents have been tending to the
Partnership for Peace and Prosperity in Saint Martin,
under whose aegis members of the private sector operating in the zone
and local community leaders have sought dialogue and improvement in
living conditions there. The two sides began talking in 2007 and, even
through the earthquake and after, they are still talking. It is perhaps a
hopeful sign.
I had known Martelly very slightly in his previous life as Sweet Micky.
We spent a memorable evening more than a decade ago cruising through
Port-au-Prince in his SUV with a loaded pistol between us as he bemoaned
the state of Haiti and the irresponsibility of its leaders both
political and economic, a scene depicted in a
book I later wrote about the country.
When I visited Haiti in August 2011, just after Martelly's election, I found popular
support for the colorful, eccentric president among the
pep la, as Haiti's struggling class (which is to say almost everybody) is known, still high.
Despite the eroding of that hope when confronted with the immense
challenge of governing Haiti and his own missteps, Haitians still seem
to be giving Martelly the benefit of the doubt.
So many factors - rising food prices, civil unrest underwritten by
various malefactors, another natural calamity - could change that. But
in a country whose leaders have often promoted themselves through terror
and abuse, Martelly - whose signature colour is pink - has offered
something of a change of tone, however unorthodox.
On my last day in Haiti, purely by chance, my path overlapped with that of Michel Martelly.
Waiting at the airport to board my flight home, I saw Martelly's
American Airlines plane fly in from Miami. As if on cue and so apt for a
showman, the cloudy gloom that had plagued the capital for days broke
and rays of brilliant golden sunshine spilled out of a blue sky.
Diplomats, Haitian police officers in their crisp khaki uniforms and
every airport worker that could sneak away from their job were standing
there to greet him. He was going to be
inaugurating a new arrival hall, they told me, then this week he would be leaving again, this time for
Cuba.
Martelly disembarked from the plane, his bald head and smiling visage visible among the mostly smaller Haitians.
They cheered.
Michael Deibert's forthcoming book, Democratic Republic of Congo: Between Hope and Despair, will be published by Zed Books in cooperation with the Royal African Society, the International African Institute and the Social Science Research Council. His previous book, Notes from the Last Testament: The Struggle for Haiti (Seven Stories Press, 2005), was praised by the Miami Herald as "a powerfully documented exposé" and by the San Antonio Express-News as "a compelling mix of reportage, memoir and social criticism."